Judging by other peoples' experiences, LogiSystems controllers obviously still have problems. Even if I get mine back in the near future, I don't feel like I will be able to put much trust in it. I decided to bite the bullet and spend another $1700 to get a more reliable Curtis 144 volt controller. Thinking that with this latest news about LogiSystems there might now be a rush of people trying to grab the few Curtis 144 volt controllers that are readily available, I purchased mine online last night. I have since gotten confirmation that it will be shipped today.
This opens a whole new chapter in the story of the Electric Duster. I now will have to remove two batteries to make it 144 volts. I honestly do not know if that voltage will be able to deliver the top speed I was shooting for in my heavy car. At least I will be removing 130 pounds of battery weight. And, at least I will be able to get the car on the road. Who knows how long I would be waiting if I held out for LogiSystems.
This change entails a little rewiring of course. In addition, I will have to adjust the voltage of my battery charger. I'm so glad I went with the Manzanita Micro charger that would allow me to adapt to a different battery pack.
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11 comments:
I think you made a good choice. It's better to sacrifice a few miles but have a reliable car, instead of a car that you have to think every minute "jeez I hope it won't leave me stranded out here again..."
I'm really curious about the practical top speed and driving range. A 144 volt system is not bad, after all. Even in a "heavy" old Plymouth, I think it'll make for a useable car :-)
That green 69 Valiant I saw earlier on the internet had a 120 volt system on a Advanced DC 9in motor, with A-833 4 speed manual transmission. The guy claims it'll do 65 (possibly 70) MPH, with 45 mile range.
Of course there may be some differences in specs to keep in mind, but I would assume your 144 volt version would be able to outrun it...
Cheers & keep us posted :)
Werner
Belgium
Thanks Werner,
I'm hoping for the best with the Curtis controller. I have seen that Valiant that you referred to. I even emailed the owner a couple of times before I began my conversion, since they are practically the same body. His car, and Chevy S-10 trucks weigh about as much as my Duster. Many of them claim a top speed of 65 to 70 MPH and a range of around 40 miles. I would be satisfied with that. I was just trying to do a little better by using 156 volts. But you are right, reliability is worth a little sacrifice.
Glad to hear you're moving forward.
I'm quite interested to hear your opinion after a week or so of driving. Too bad about having to drop cash on a second controller though...
I think the reduced weight from tossing the two batteries will help performance. Plus, you can sell those "new" batteries to recoup some of your expense.
Sucks about the lame controller. Class Action lawsuit?
I just called Logisystems and they are claiming some recent successes with their testing. They are also claiming that they've isolated and fixed the problems of the blown up controllers. I'm holding on to hope just a little bit more.
Of course, long term testing is what is important, and it's difficult to reproduce that in a lab. We'll have to see...
Thanks Daniel!!!
That sounds like excellent news. I just tried to call them to see when they would have my controller fixed but they didn't answer. I'll try again later.
I have the Curtis 1231-C ready to go in this weekend but if LogiSystems is close to having success I'd rather wait and try that controller one more time before I have to rewire for 144 volts.
Hey Bruce,
Sounds great, I hope they got it right this time.
I have a question about the transmission. I've seen some conversions which keep the clutch, for shifting during driving. Others have the motor mounted to the tranmission without the clutch. Your's is like that, right? Does it shift well? Or do you have to be careful not to "grind" the gears?
Also, I was wondering, why are there so few automatics used? The torques converter tends to slip, but... wouldn't it be possible to use an automatic transmission without the torque converter?
Cheers,
Werner
Belgium
Hello Werner,
Yes, I decided to leave off the clutch and flywheel because of the weight. It is quite easy to shift without a clutch once you are moving. I used to do that just for fun once in a while :) There is no gear grinding if done properly.
I do not know too much about automatic transmissions other than the fact that they work by allowing slippage, which is a huge waste of energy. Therefore, they are not practical on an EV.
You really don't need a transmission at all. Many people just go direct-drive with a reversing controller. I wanted to use my transmission for reverse and to have a gearing option. I also wanted to keep the look of the car the same as stock as much as possible.
I think this may answer some questions about automatics in an EV: http://mysite.verizon.net/davidharrington1/EV/Auto_EV.pdf
Hey that's very interesting. Thanks!
It's obvious that this is something for the advanced builders only, plus this setup must rob a lot of battery power, indeed.
It seems - if a transmission is used - that a manual would be "easier" to convert AND be more efficient (technically). And, from what I read so far, one could even get by without a transmission at all :-) I expect that would result in a better range.
BTW, I finally did get through to LogiSystems. They seemed very positive and excited about what they had found and fixed in their design. They are planning to resume repairs Monday 12/22. I am going to call them again Wednesday to see when my controller will be sent. If the news is good, I will be reinstalling the LogiSystems instead of the Curtis controller. So my project is on hold for a little while longer.
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