Visible at the bottom left is the internal fuse that was referred to in the charger documentation. That is blown, which I was fairly certain would be. However, Rich told me the fuse is basically only to protect against a fire from (idiots) wiring it backwards. The charger circuitry is protected by an expensive power diode which, if blown would have to be replaced at the factory and cost about $250. After verifying the fuse was blown, Rich had me test the diode. This passed the test! It was like finding out from your doctor that the suspicious lump that grew on your body is not cancerous.Rich said not to feel bad about hooking it up backwards - he gets four or five a year back because of that. I did not suggest that maybe it's because you have to look so hard in all of the documentation to find the wiring instructions. No, I just considered myself lucky that my stupidity is only going to cost me $15 and a few days instead of much more - at least this time.
9 comments:
Hi Guy, I am Peter. I just got my EV running about two weeks ago, it's your typical Chevy S-10 conversion. I have the Manzanita PFC-30 and a Zilla 1K controller. I feel very fortunate to have received my Zilla shortly before Cafe Electric stopped shipping. They stopped because they were too busy, not because of other problems. I would have to say with my nearly non-existent experience that the Zilla is stupendous, but I don't think you can get them any more.
But the point I wanted to make was that the Manzanita is an animal, you will love it, it's amazingly powerfull, I typically charge at 30amps into my 156 pack. I bought the Manzanita because of the ability to charge from 110 or 220 without having to change anything. You just dial it down so you don't blow fuses.
I love it and I am absolutely certain you will too once you have the wires the right way around.
Mine came with the grey Anderson connector alrady on the wires. Didn't yours? I didn't have to figure out the polarity I just had to look at the Anderson to see it.
If I may pass on some experience about the batteries. Deep cycle batters are weak the first few cycles. Once you have downed them and re-charged them a few times they get a lot stronger. They are probably only one half as strong as they will soon become on the first cycle. Don't let that scare you, it scared the crap out of me. On my first run I thought that I was only going to get maybe 25K out of a charge. But the batteries were much stronger even on the second cycle. They say that it takes about 10 before they have all of their muscles.
Hi,
I'm Werner. Just wanted to let you know I think this is a fantastic project that I'm following with interest.
It not only proves that an electric car doesn't have to be boring & can actually be cool; but it has also inspired me:
I hope to build one some day too.
Some day, meaning : Currently I'm finishing my Hazzard County patrol car replica (77 Monaco, original 225 slant six); and I need to save up some money since I plan to buy a house in a year or two.
But after that I would like a project like this too.
I think I'll use a 4-door 70-72 Valiant (just personal taste), so your project is the perfect example.
I also found this one while surfing the web:
http://evalbum.com/1399
Your's has a much better solution for the batteries in the trunk, but it all shows these A-bodies make a good EV :-)
Your Duster EV really is great: You might consider going into business: Buying old Mopar A-bodies, converting to EV professionally and selling them.
Tree questions:
- Sorry to hear about the controller problems. Is this lack of reliabilty a general problem with most EV control units? Or is it just that brand you got? Are there reliable ones?
- Batteries: Most of these conversions use 6 V batteries. Why is that? I assumed it would be easier buying 'standard' 12 V car batteries for the battery pack? Are they not good for any reason?
(sorry, I don't know much about all this - yet...)
- Does you car have power steering? If not, isn't it too 'heavy'?
And if it has PS: How does that work? If you use a pump driven by the EV motor, will it provide enough pressure when 'crawling' out of a parking space? At 1 MPH, it would barely rotate...
And if you use a small electric motor to run the pump all the time, it would drain the battery pack, no?
Thanks,
Werner
AND...
I'm from Belgium, Europe, so having an electric late 60s-early 70s Plymouth would be even more rare here then in the US :-D ;-)
Werner (again)
Hello, Peter again. I don't mean to steal the Duster's web page here but thought I might answer your questions. If the Duster fellow doesn't mind too much.
If you are interested in my EV it is here http://greennexxus.cbc.ca/viewproject.aspx?projectID=681
To answer about power steering. EV's usually have it. They use a 12 volt hydraulic pump and it works just fine. My EV has one. There is also a vacuum pump to "power" the brakes.
Your question about the batteries... Regular car batteries are not suitable. Typical car batteries would be severely damaged by discharging them as deeply as an EV will. Most EV's use Deep Discharge batteries like you find in a golf cart. My EV uses 26 of them. These batteries are typically 6 volt. The only reason that they are 6 volt instead of 12 volts is that a 12 volt deep discharge battery capable of more than 200 Amp Hours would weigh most of 200 pounds. (90 kilos) this is much too heavy to lift for almost anyone.
One more thing I would like to pass on.
Get your flywheel balanced. My kit company didn't tell me to do this and my EV shook like crazy at first. I had to take the motor out and send out the flywheel for balancing. Now it is really smooth.
Trust me on this one. It is worth every penny.
Hey guys,
Thanks for the comments!
Peter, I have ordered my replacement fuse for my charger and am anxious to try this thing out. I also purchased mine for the variable voltage input. I can use 240v at home and 120v if I am out somewhere. I have heard nothing but good things about Manzanita Micro Chargers.
Thanks for the info on the batteries. I won't be expecting too much from them on the first few cycles.
Werner,
Thanks for the compliments. I'm glad I could inspire you. It is a very worthwhile project. I hope to have some performance statistics to share pretty soon for others who might want to convert an A-Body Mopar.
I agree with the things Peter said. My Duster does not have power steering. Most of them did not originally have it. Even with my 26 batteries, it still turns quite easily - even while stopped.
Anything like power steering, power brakes, air conditioning, power windows & locks, etc requires electricity from your batteries. Current technology won't allow enough storage capacity to waste on 'extras'.
Oh yea, to set your charger let me give it to in english. I had trouble understanding the docs.
Once you are connected and "hot"
1- Turn the knob to zero amps.
2- Turn the voltage pot (inside the hole) until the yellow comes on. This is just a starting point.
3- Now for the tricky part. Turn up the amps a little, maybe 25%.
4- Watch your battery voltage (keep monitoring cause it takes time).
5- Keep increasing the trim pot (a little at a time) until your battery voltage hits 185 in my case (I have a 156 pack of flooded).
6- you're done, go have a cup of tea.
By the way I had a significant failure today. I burned a terminal post right off of my motor. A loose connection combined with 500 amps will melt your lug wrench you know.
Peter,
Thanks for the charger tips. I got my replacement fuse so I plan to give it a try this weekend.
Man, sorry to hear about your lug failure. That sounds like it's going to be a major repair.
As it turns out It is more nuisance than any big cost. I will have to remove the front batteries and the battery box to get at the motor. But appearantly I will be able to remove the motor end housing and replace the stud with the motor still in place. It shoud only take a couple of hours.
The replacement stud won't be more than 50 bucks I wouldn't think.
Make sure you tighten everything in the main power circuit. Then make sure again.
I read your latest and I can co-miserate. But don't you let your guard down for a second. Oil will go up and even if it doesn't we have both done something substantial for the environmemt.
Of course I wouldn't want to speak for you, but for me I made the switch because of global warming, not because of the price of gas.
May I suggest you watch this?
http://video.google.ca/videosearch?q=bbc+global+dimming&hl=en&emb=0&aq=f#
It is the most informative video I have seen on the subject and it is extremely well done. Make sure you pick the 49 minute one.
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