I took care of raising the front battery rack 3/4 inch. Now I have plenty of clearance for the bottom battery terminals. I also cut out a couple of cell access areas on the second rail. If I haven't mentioned it before, all bare steel on the battery racks is coated with a spray-on rubberized undercoating. All of the batteries can go back in tomorrow so I can fabricate the hold-downs for them. We wouldn't want all of those batteries to go flying now would we?
3 comments:
I think this project is just great. I've been wanting to convert "something" to electric drive for a while, but had NO idea where to go, what to read, or how to get started. A 1970 Duster was my first car, and I still own it, so that makes your project all the more interesting to me.
I'm sure you are right, and I am wrong, as you're way ahead of my on this stuff, but I have to ask about the tach and reluctor wheel.
I haven't had enough coffee yet to be thinking this hard, but here it is.
Is that digital tach adjustable for 4-6-8 cylinders like many aftermarket automotive tachs are? Or is it designed to literally display the number of pulses it sees?
If it's a direct display, wouldn't you want just 1 tooth on the reluctor wheel?
Hi Dynodave,
Hey my first car was a '70 Duster as well. Sassy Grass Green. I had it for 7 years and I WISH I still had it.
Here is the way I think it works with the tach. They are programmed to count pulses and assign a certain number of pulses to one revolution. The number assigned can be changed to account for a 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder. In the case of my digital tach, I think it uses jumpers to change that value.
A tach COULD be built to simply assign one pulse to one rev, but automotive tachs are using the pulses that go to the coil to make it generate the high voltage that fires the spark plug. Since that happens 4 times per rev on an 8 cylinder, the tach uses that info to count the revolutions.
I could be wrong too, as I find out every day I work on this project :) It's a total learning experience in many different areas.
I follow you, Bruce. I guess if you know the advertised max RPM of the drill you are turning your test rig with, you can check to see if you are getting a reading close to that number.
Congrats on the progress thus far.
DynoDave
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